Table Saw Cutting Depth | According to The Blade Size

Last modified on September 11, 2021
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Table Saw Cutting Depth | How deep can a table saw cut? - According to The Blade Size

How deep can a table saw cut? The cutting depth of a table saw is normally about 1/3 of the blade’s diameter. It is difficult to provide a single figure because there are various types of table saws with blades as tiny as 6′′ and as large as 15′′ or more. So, according to the rule of thumb (1/3 the blade’s diameter), an 8-1/4-inch table saw can cut 2.7 inches deep, whereas a 10-inch table saw can cut 3.3 inches deep, and with a 12-inch table saw, you can cut up to 4-inches deep.

A table saw is an essential tool in every woodworker’s workshop. They’re the best tool for cutting huge pieces of wood and plastic, and they can cut with far greater precision than miter saws. They can make a wide range of cuts, including angled cuts, rip cuts, making them an indispensable tool. Table saws are also great for beginners and capable of dadoes, read more on

Table saws are classified according to the size of circular blades they can use; the most majority accept 10-inch blades, with a few exceptions accepting 12-inch blades. Because the blade is adjustable, one can do shallow cuts that are only a quarter of an inch deep and also larger cuts.

More on The Table Saw Cutting Depth

Cutting depth is also influenced by the table saw’s geometry. The diameter of the blade, the arbor size and washer that clamp the blade to the arbor, and the amount of travel incorporated into the blade lifting mechanism are all important considerations.

Table saw saws are typically 10 and 12 inches in diameter. On consumer-level saws, a 10-inch blade is standard. On commercial and industrial saws, a 12-inch blade is offered.

Only the portion of the blade that protrudes beyond the arbor can be used to cut. Arbor washers are offered as aftermarket “blade stabilizers” to increase blade stiffness on a certain saw and vary by brand.

Most table saws’ blade raising mechanisms can elevate the arbor to the point where the flange almost contacts the throat plate’s bottom, which is generally approximately 1/8 inch thick.

In general, a 10-inch saw can cut somewhat more than 3″ deep. A 12″ saw will cut 4″ deep. Check the product’s specification sheet if you want to find how deep that table saw can cut.

If you have access to a table saw, make sure the blade raising mechanism is free of dust and crank the blade up as far as it goes or until the arbor washer hits the throat plate. This is the optimal setup for the blade to cut the deepest groove.

You want the blade to stick up above the wood a little if you’re cutting fully through it, preferably such that the entire sawtooth is above the wood. This keeps the blade cool by allowing sawdust to discharge from the gullets between the saw teeth.

The motor that powers the blade is the second component that influences how deep a table saw can cut. 10-inch consumer saws often use a lightweight belt drive or direct drive motors that can perform full depth cuts in mild woods like pine but bog down or stall when cutting tougher woods like oaks. 12-inch saws feature higher powerful motors that are intended to cut even the toughest woods without slowing down.

The saw blade design might impact power needs. For example, if you need to do a lot of ripping and the saw is bogging down, switching from a combination blade to a ripping may assist you in finishing the work more easily.

Height of The Blade on A Table Saw While Operating

There are several contemporary suggestions, all of which are quite similar:

  • Raise the blade, so one full tooth is visible above your workpiece.
  • The blade’s apex should be 0.13″ to 0.38″ above the workpiece.
  • Raising the blade exposes half of the gullet.

The typical reason for elevating the blade is that the front of the blade makes a more downward cut, theoretically minimizing kickback and enhancing cut quality. While this may result in a higher-quality cut in plywood, the kickback argument is incorrect because kickback is frequently caused by the kerf squeezing the rear of the blade or a workpiece or offcut being squeezed between the back of the blade and the fence.

The rationale for lowering the blade is that with a less exposed blade, there is a decreased risk of amputation if you accidentally place your hand in the cut line.

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